A Wodeyar Masterpiece

The cultural heritage of Mysore comes alive with the royal palace, a treasure house of ancient artifacts and rich history.

The enchanting garden city of Mysore, with the Chamundi Hills as the backdrop, is a tourists’ paradise. Goddess Chamundeeshwari is the presiding deity at the temple atop the hills. After the vanquishing Mahishasura, Goddess Dura is said to have assumed the form of Chamundi and taken abode here. Mysore, however, rose to fame during the Wodeyar dynasty, when the Mysore Palace is believed to have been built. The Royal abode of the kings stands in all its grandeur even today, preserving some of the finest artifacts of the maharajahs.

Intriguing past

The Royal Palace has an interesting past. Built during the 14^th century, it was home to the then Mysore royal family. Narasaraja Wodeyar rebuilt it after the palace was damaged by a lightning strike. This hastily built structure was badly in need of repair by the end of the 19^th century, with many of the tenements attached to it crumbling. The wooden palace was completely destroyed in a fire accident in 1897, during the wedding of the then princess, Jayalakshmammani. John Birdwood of the Mysore Army, who later became the commander-in-chief of the Indian Army, had captured the wooden palace in his camera. Maharani Vanivilasa Sannidhana restored the grandeur of this palace, keeping the old foundation intact. Build over 15 years’ time at an outlay of about rupees 42 crore, it had two noteworthy factors- mostly local materials were used and fire-proof methods were adopted. And the palace we see today was the brainchild of the British architect Henry Irwin, in 1912.

A mix of architectural styles

As this palace was reconstructed several times, it mainly showcases the Indo-Saracenic style of architecture, with shades of Hindu, Muslim, Rajput, and Gothic styles. It displays uninhibited grandeur and resembles any magnificent building ranging from from a medieval Mughal Mausoleum to an opulent French chateau. The three-tiered palace stands on the western side of the quadrangular fort with five entrances. Made of granite, with a touch pink in its domes, the palace makes for a delightful spectacle. The gold-plated tower measures 145 feet from the ground to the tip of the golden flag at its summit. Seven expensive arches adorn the imposing façade; with the central arch supported by tall pillars, and flanked by two smaller ones on either side. An exquisitely sculpted statue of Gajalakshmi, the goddess of wealth, (most befittingly) is mounted above the central arch. A miniature model of the original wooden palace is placed at the entrance. The imposing monument displays ancient courtyard architecture in its “Gombe Thotti” (doll pavilion that showcases traditional dolls of the 19^th and early 20^th century), which opens to the sky.

The main entrance, however, is the elephant gate which lies halfway across, after entering the palace. The main gate displays the Mysore royal symbol of a double-headed eagle. Many collections of the erstwhile Wodeyar rulers have been preserved here, including an elephant howdah decorated with 84 kilograms of pure gold! To the immediate south is an octagonal, painted pavilion, the Kalyana Mantapa (marriage hall), richly decorated with gold, and beautiful chandeliers. It has a colorful glass ceiling, with the peacock motif as its main theme. For this reason, it’s also referred to as the peacock pavilion. The colorful murals on the walls have immortalized festivals on canvas, in 26 Panels. The floor is decorated with tiles imported from England, artistically laid out in geometric patterns.

Equally enthralling are the large rooms and halls, each having a specific use. “The Diwan-I-Aam” (public Darbar Hall) has an ornate ceiling and shining floor, with gold-coated pillars. Paintings depicting scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata adorn the walls with Raja Ravivarma’s paintings adorning the rear walls.

The Diwan-e-Khas (for private audience) has meticulously carved doors. Of all, the Amba Vilasa is the most gorgeously decorated hall with a harmonious composition of colors. Its teak wood ceiling has magnificent, bold and intricately carved designs. Silver, teak and rosewood doors have ivory inlays depicting Lord Vishnu’s 10 incarnations and an adorable baby Krishna kissing his toe. The central aisle has stained glass paintings, supported by cast-iron pillars, and the flooring in between has an inlay of Agra work.

The Bejeweled Golden Throne

The star attraction is the bejeweled golden throne, comprising the main seat, a staircase, and a golden umbrella with Sanskrit verses engraved on its rim. The 200 Kg royal throne of the Wodeyars, made of pure gold and further enhanced with magnificent artwork, is kept for public display during Dushera.

The throne is said to have belonged to the Pandavas, which was buried in Penugonda, Andhra Pradesh. Retrieved by Harihara-1 of the Vijayanagar Empire, it was taken to Srirangapatna, and later handed over to Raja Wodeyar who ascended it amidst great pomp. Though the second legend is not supported by much historical evidence, it is believed to have been given by Aurangzeb as a gift to Chikkadevaraja Wodeyar.  Aurangzeb is said to have sent a signet ring with an inscription and permission to sit on the throne. After the fall of Tipusultan, the throne was recovered from the Sultan’s palace at Srirangapatna. The royal seat was later used in the coronation of the child, Raja Krishnaraja Wodeyar-3 and has remained with the Mysore royal family ever since. The ceremonial sections of the palace, the armory and trophy rooms, and the Car passage with 7 cannons and 4 carriages loaded with ammunition boxes are closed to visitors.

These cannons are used for the ceremonial salute on Vijayadashami day. Other attractions at the palace include the marble statuettes of European origin, decorative marble sculptures, metal carving depicting “Sour grapes”, mirror work, Ganesha idol made of sacred black stones brought from 300 holy spots, portrait and photo gallery, period furniture room, and a small museum. The fort has several temples built in the Dravidian style of architecture showcasing the religious fervor of the Wodeyar rulers. Religious ceremonies are held in the temple on special occasions.    

      

How Dushera Celebrations Started

Think of Mysore palace and immediately, the color and beauty of Dushera leaps to mind! Dushera was first celebrated on a grand scale by the rulers of Vijayanagar at Hampi. This is evident from the writings of Domingo Paes, a Portuguese traveler, and Abdur Razaak, a Persian ambassador who had visited Vijayanagar. With the disintegration of the Vijayanagar Empire, the Nayaks of the Keladi and Ikkeri, and the Wodeyars of Mysore inherited this tradition. However, it was the Wodeyars who made it a grand spectacle, culminating in the kings’ procession in a golden Howdah (the carrier mounted on a decorated elephant). The festival, as witnessed today, was first celebrated in 1610 with great pomp and so at Srirangapatna when Raja Wodeyar had ascended the throne. The rich cultural heritage that Mysore preserves to this date is believed to be his contribution.

Let there be Light!

The palace is simply dazzling when it is illuminated on Sunday’s, national holidays and special festive occasions like Dushera. You may be surprised to learn that the illumination is contributed by about one lakh 15-watt bulbs! According to the Government Tourism Department, the Mysore palace is one of the highly visited tourist attractions of India and is a must-visit during September-October. No wonder locals and tourists flock to the palace for a glimpse of this royal Heaven!

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A Visit to Beirut- The Capital City of Lebanon

Before Beirut became a synonym for carnage, it was part of a Mediterranean circuit for party hunters, which included Monte Carlo, the French Riviera and Alexandria- it was ‘Paris of the East’. In the 1970s, the Israelis began to attack southern Lebanon, where the PLO was located, and in 1982 launched Operation Peace for Galilee. Fifteen years of civil war followed.

However, Beirut is back with a vengeance.  Today, Lebanon’s ministry of tourism advertises it as “The City that would not die”. Relative peace has brought to the fore all the elements that make Lebanon a traveller’s paradise: a small country (150KM by 60KM) you can travel the length and breadth of in a few hours; pristine mountains; beaches set by the Mediterranean; ancient cities; the spirit of warn-torn people getting the most out of life. (The war did not really stop the Beirutis from partying—they just went underground and put the music on louder to drown out the shelling.) With low crime rates and political stability, Beirut is now safe, glamorous and very happening.

Situated at the eastern end of the Mediterranean, Lebanon is at a crossroad of three continents. It has always been strategic, with a history of unrest dating to Old Testament times. The rocks in Dog River Valley bear testimony to centuries of struggles- messages left by occupying armies down the centuries. It was also the refuge of minorities fleeing persecution between the 9^th and 11^th centuries—the Christian Maronites, Shi’ite Muslims and the Druze settled here. Thanks to the various peoples who occupied Beirut- the Phoenicians, Romans, Greeks, Arabs, French—Lebanon offers a long list of things to see and do. But what Beirut, and Lebanon, offers best is Atmosphere.

The first day we walk from our hotels to one of the many restaurants on the Corniche. After a leisurely gourmet lunch (after a few days, I wonder- whether there is another kind) followed by shisha and Turkish coffee, we walk along the Corniche. It carries on to the city’s central district, the approach to which is marked by the Hard Rock Café. By late afternoon, families start drifting in which stoves, backgammon, coffeepots and narghileh/shisha; others come to stroll or jog. Power-walking is very popular, especially with fashionably dressed Lebanese women. (You rarely see the Lebanese not dressed to kill; they even iron their workout clothes!) I noticed food carts draped with the Lebanese flag. 

Vendors and illegal, and they use the national flag so that the police will respect their patriotism and leave them alone. We watch the sunset over the famous Pigeon Rocks and take a cab downtown. Since 1997, the Lebanese have gone about rebuilding the city. Exquisite architecture stands next to glittering high rises and shell-shocked structures whose time has not yet come. The visual contrast is surreal around the national Museum, reconstructed to its previous glory, but surrounded by shelled buildings especially around the Green Line, which divided Christian East Beirut from the Muslim West.

The cab drops us off a Solidere, the city center. This area has been rebuilt in golden sandstone and pink marble- as it used to be before the war erupted in April 1975—complete with cobbled streets, pavement cafes, wrought-iron railings, Ottoman arches and terracotta roofs. You could be forgiven for thinking you were in Paris. The cobblestoned pedestrian streets are lined with shops selling traditional crafts, designer fashions, and jewelry. Solidere is also home to Roman ruins that have been uncovered and preserved, several notable mosques and churches, and the National Parliament Building.

There are over 50 restaurants, bars and sidewalk cafes, but it is hard to find a place to sit. The tables are filled, and men and women strut up and down the street in their finest. I’m not an expert, but it doesn’t take one to figure that everyone’s dressed in the height of fashion. It feels like the whole town is here. The war has taken its toll and there are 15 million Lebanese who live and work outside Lebanon, compared to a resident population of 5 million. The summer sees the Lebanese expats return. It’s also a popular holiday destination for Gulf Arabs who come for pleasures— bars, casinos and unveiled girls—they cannot sample at home (they like to call it coming up for ‘flesh air’).

After a few drinks and dinners, it’s time for Beirut’s legendary nightlife. The Solidere crowd heads for a night of revelry at one of Monot Street’s clubs until dawn breaks behind Mount Lebanon. Monot Street has a huge selection of nightclubs: BO 18 which use to be a refugee camp; Crystal, the current favorite of fickle Beirut’s; Zinc, a bar in a French colonial villa which was taken and retaken so many times during the war it was called the Bitch of Beirut. Casino du Liban has a floor-show that would give any in Parish a run for its money. At Crystal, there is no dance floor, but on the erstwhile dinner tables men and women are dancing—the men in designers shirts and jeans and the women in mini-skirts or artery-restricting jeans.

The next day we spend walking around town, exploring the shopping options. Street food is popular and essentially consists of stands offering shawarma (slabs of chicken or meat sizzling on vertical skewers, to be grated and stuffed into Pitta bread with tahineh and pickles) and, of course, the Lebanese favorite, falafel (fried grated chickpeas). When the war ended, the fast shop of to reopen in downtown Beirut was a falafel stand. The city had become an uninhabited wasteland of bombed-out buildings and overgrown streets, but once the shooting stooped, a small shop appeared in a bullet-riddled building. Sahyoun, the falafel stand, was back.

We end the afternoon indulging in a Turkish bath at the Al-Nouzha. It provides a real glimpse of old Beirut. Although not traditional in style, the scrubbed down is authentic.

In the next morning’s paper, I see a readers’ poll: “Are you a Metrosexual?” The word could have been coined as Crystal. Appurtenances are very important in Lebanon. 

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Australia Travel Guide- Tour and Travel Blogger

Sydney

Your stay in Sydney includes a tour highlighting the best that this magnificent city has to offer, including a photo stop where you enjoy a sweeping view of the Opera House and Harbor Bridge. You will also see Kings Cross, the city's nightlife area, and travel through exclusive suburbs to one of Sidney's famous beaches. See trendy Paddington, the ultramodern Darling Harbor development, and the historic Rocks area. On your own, you may wish to take a ferry to Manly and go swimming at the beach. If its wildlife you want to see, then Taronga Zoo is the perfect place for you. Here you can view Kangaroos, Koalas, Wombats, Dingoes, and more. Perhaps, you'd like to climb the Sydney Harbor Bridge! Full-day excursions are available to the national capital, Canberra, or the World Heritage listed the Blue Mountains or you can learn of Australia's famous wine-making industry in the Hunter Valley.

Melbourne

Your stay includes a city tour to introduce you to this beautiful "Garden City". Travel along Collins Street, the ultimate shopping strip and business center viewing fine examples of Melbourne's architectural splendor, including opulent St. Paul's Cathedral, Princess and Regent Theaters, Melbourne Town Hall, and the new Federation Square. You will stroll through the Botanical Gardens and explore Captain Cook's Cottage. Also see world-renowned sporting arenas inducing the MCC and Rod Laver Arena, home of the Australian Tennis Open. During your stay, why not enjoy a visit to the penguin parade of the magnificent full-day Great Ocean Road Adventure? 

Cairns

Your stay in Cairns includes a half-day excretion to Green Island by fast catamaran, one of many beautiful tropical islands on the Great Barrier Reef. Here you can choose to snorkel or take the glass bottom boat to view the coral array of fish or join a naturalist for a guided walk through the Island's cool rainforest. (Guests combining Cairns with the Great Barrier Reef Cruise below will not take this half-day excursion.) You may wish to join a Kuranda via the Skyrail Rainforest Cableway. For the return journey, you can go via the old scenic rail tour to Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park, a fascinating portrayal of Aboriginal culture, dance, and folklore. For a fun way to spend an evening, join an optional outgoing to the home of a local Aussie family for a delicious meal.   

Great Barrier Reef Cruise 

Small cruise vessels are purposely built for a cruise from Cairns to Great Barrier Reef. Cruise on a first-class cruise vessel from Cairns to Barrier Reef. There are many onboard activities including reef presentations from marine naturalists, visiting The Caption on the bridge to learn the secrets of navigation, or simply enjoying the ship's lounges and pool. By day, the ship's boats will carry you into beautiful bays; while at night indulge yourself with the superb cuisine, service, and surroundings. 

Ayers Rock 

One evening, you travel to the magnificent Kata Tjuta (the Olgas) a geological splendor of some 30 brilliant monoliths. There is time for a walk among these wonders before returning to "Sunset Strip" to witness the changing colors of Uluru (Ayers Rock). Also included during your stay is a morning base tour of Uluru to learn of the importance of the natural wonder to Aboriginal "Dreamtime" mythology. The remainder of your time is free for your own exploration.

 

To get a travel guide on a particular travel destination or contact a travel agent, mail us at roy86.samapti@gmail.com