A Wodeyar Masterpiece

The cultural heritage of Mysore comes alive with the royal palace, a treasure house of ancient artifacts and rich history.

The enchanting garden city of Mysore, with the Chamundi Hills as the backdrop, is a tourists’ paradise. Goddess Chamundeeshwari is the presiding deity at the temple atop the hills. After the vanquishing Mahishasura, Goddess Dura is said to have assumed the form of Chamundi and taken abode here. Mysore, however, rose to fame during the Wodeyar dynasty, when the Mysore Palace is believed to have been built. The Royal abode of the kings stands in all its grandeur even today, preserving some of the finest artifacts of the maharajahs.

Intriguing past

The Royal Palace has an interesting past. Built during the 14^th century, it was home to the then Mysore royal family. Narasaraja Wodeyar rebuilt it after the palace was damaged by a lightning strike. This hastily built structure was badly in need of repair by the end of the 19^th century, with many of the tenements attached to it crumbling. The wooden palace was completely destroyed in a fire accident in 1897, during the wedding of the then princess, Jayalakshmammani. John Birdwood of the Mysore Army, who later became the commander-in-chief of the Indian Army, had captured the wooden palace in his camera. Maharani Vanivilasa Sannidhana restored the grandeur of this palace, keeping the old foundation intact. Build over 15 years’ time at an outlay of about rupees 42 crore, it had two noteworthy factors- mostly local materials were used and fire-proof methods were adopted. And the palace we see today was the brainchild of the British architect Henry Irwin, in 1912.

A mix of architectural styles

As this palace was reconstructed several times, it mainly showcases the Indo-Saracenic style of architecture, with shades of Hindu, Muslim, Rajput, and Gothic styles. It displays uninhibited grandeur and resembles any magnificent building ranging from from a medieval Mughal Mausoleum to an opulent French chateau. The three-tiered palace stands on the western side of the quadrangular fort with five entrances. Made of granite, with a touch pink in its domes, the palace makes for a delightful spectacle. The gold-plated tower measures 145 feet from the ground to the tip of the golden flag at its summit. Seven expensive arches adorn the imposing façade; with the central arch supported by tall pillars, and flanked by two smaller ones on either side. An exquisitely sculpted statue of Gajalakshmi, the goddess of wealth, (most befittingly) is mounted above the central arch. A miniature model of the original wooden palace is placed at the entrance. The imposing monument displays ancient courtyard architecture in its “Gombe Thotti” (doll pavilion that showcases traditional dolls of the 19^th and early 20^th century), which opens to the sky.

The main entrance, however, is the elephant gate which lies halfway across, after entering the palace. The main gate displays the Mysore royal symbol of a double-headed eagle. Many collections of the erstwhile Wodeyar rulers have been preserved here, including an elephant howdah decorated with 84 kilograms of pure gold! To the immediate south is an octagonal, painted pavilion, the Kalyana Mantapa (marriage hall), richly decorated with gold, and beautiful chandeliers. It has a colorful glass ceiling, with the peacock motif as its main theme. For this reason, it’s also referred to as the peacock pavilion. The colorful murals on the walls have immortalized festivals on canvas, in 26 Panels. The floor is decorated with tiles imported from England, artistically laid out in geometric patterns.

Equally enthralling are the large rooms and halls, each having a specific use. “The Diwan-I-Aam” (public Darbar Hall) has an ornate ceiling and shining floor, with gold-coated pillars. Paintings depicting scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata adorn the walls with Raja Ravivarma’s paintings adorning the rear walls.

The Diwan-e-Khas (for private audience) has meticulously carved doors. Of all, the Amba Vilasa is the most gorgeously decorated hall with a harmonious composition of colors. Its teak wood ceiling has magnificent, bold and intricately carved designs. Silver, teak and rosewood doors have ivory inlays depicting Lord Vishnu’s 10 incarnations and an adorable baby Krishna kissing his toe. The central aisle has stained glass paintings, supported by cast-iron pillars, and the flooring in between has an inlay of Agra work.

The Bejeweled Golden Throne

The star attraction is the bejeweled golden throne, comprising the main seat, a staircase, and a golden umbrella with Sanskrit verses engraved on its rim. The 200 Kg royal throne of the Wodeyars, made of pure gold and further enhanced with magnificent artwork, is kept for public display during Dushera.

The throne is said to have belonged to the Pandavas, which was buried in Penugonda, Andhra Pradesh. Retrieved by Harihara-1 of the Vijayanagar Empire, it was taken to Srirangapatna, and later handed over to Raja Wodeyar who ascended it amidst great pomp. Though the second legend is not supported by much historical evidence, it is believed to have been given by Aurangzeb as a gift to Chikkadevaraja Wodeyar.  Aurangzeb is said to have sent a signet ring with an inscription and permission to sit on the throne. After the fall of Tipusultan, the throne was recovered from the Sultan’s palace at Srirangapatna. The royal seat was later used in the coronation of the child, Raja Krishnaraja Wodeyar-3 and has remained with the Mysore royal family ever since. The ceremonial sections of the palace, the armory and trophy rooms, and the Car passage with 7 cannons and 4 carriages loaded with ammunition boxes are closed to visitors.

These cannons are used for the ceremonial salute on Vijayadashami day. Other attractions at the palace include the marble statuettes of European origin, decorative marble sculptures, metal carving depicting “Sour grapes”, mirror work, Ganesha idol made of sacred black stones brought from 300 holy spots, portrait and photo gallery, period furniture room, and a small museum. The fort has several temples built in the Dravidian style of architecture showcasing the religious fervor of the Wodeyar rulers. Religious ceremonies are held in the temple on special occasions.    

      

How Dushera Celebrations Started

Think of Mysore palace and immediately, the color and beauty of Dushera leaps to mind! Dushera was first celebrated on a grand scale by the rulers of Vijayanagar at Hampi. This is evident from the writings of Domingo Paes, a Portuguese traveler, and Abdur Razaak, a Persian ambassador who had visited Vijayanagar. With the disintegration of the Vijayanagar Empire, the Nayaks of the Keladi and Ikkeri, and the Wodeyars of Mysore inherited this tradition. However, it was the Wodeyars who made it a grand spectacle, culminating in the kings’ procession in a golden Howdah (the carrier mounted on a decorated elephant). The festival, as witnessed today, was first celebrated in 1610 with great pomp and so at Srirangapatna when Raja Wodeyar had ascended the throne. The rich cultural heritage that Mysore preserves to this date is believed to be his contribution.

Let there be Light!

The palace is simply dazzling when it is illuminated on Sunday’s, national holidays and special festive occasions like Dushera. You may be surprised to learn that the illumination is contributed by about one lakh 15-watt bulbs! According to the Government Tourism Department, the Mysore palace is one of the highly visited tourist attractions of India and is a must-visit during September-October. No wonder locals and tourists flock to the palace for a glimpse of this royal Heaven!

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